Any and all rat and mouse poisons are toxic to dogs and cats.
​These poisons are made to be tasty to animals. If you use these make sure to place them in locations that can not be reached by your pets. ie: locked rooms or cabinets. Also be on the look out for the dead rodents ingestion of them by your furry friend can also cause problems. 
The different types affect them in different ways but can all be fatal if not caught and treated in a timely manor. 
The 3 types of poisons.
​​Anticoagulants​ ​such as Warfarin, Bromadiolone, Pindone, Diphacinone, and Chlorohacinone to name a few, block the synthesis of Vitamin K, an essential component in normal blood clotting. This can cause spontaneous and uncontrolled bleeding. Sometimes the bleeding can be seen externally with nose bleed, bloody vomit or bleeding from the rectum. However unseen internal bleeding into the chest or abdomen can also occur. 
​Bromethalin ​can cause increased volume and pressure of the cerebrospinal fluid. This can lead to a number of neurological symptoms.
Zinc Phosphide also found in pesticides causes a release of gases when mixed with stomach acid. This can cause bloody vomit  and  respiratory signs as well as neurological signs.
​Signs and Symptoms      
Anticoagulants:                         Others:
Lethargy, depression                 Lethargy, depression
Pale or bleeding gums               Loss of appetite
​​Blood in vomit, urine or stool     Stumbling
​Bloody nose                               Vomiting
​Bruising                                      Seizures or Paralysis
Treatment
​​If you think your pet has ingested the toxin in the last few hours you may be instructed to induce vomiting.
​Even if your animal does vomit up the poison you need to be seen by a veterinarian as soon as possible.
​Your pet may need other treatments such as iv fluids, Vitamin K, activated charcoal and other meds to control the symptoms. Other diagnostics may also need to be preformed to see the extent of the poisoning.

​Do not induce vomiting unless instructed to do so by a veterinarian.

​It may take several weeks on meds for your pet to fully recover. Repeat bloodwork may be preformed to insure treatment is working.

As the weather warms up and sunny days call to us to get out and enjoy the great outdoors, remember that other animals are also out. Rattlesnakes love to enjoy sunshine, the forest and many of the same hiking tails that you do.
​Here are a few tips to keep you furry friend safe while you are out and about or at home in rattlesnake country.

• ​Avoid dense brush, rocky or tall grassy areas.​ Stay on tails or roads. You are more likely to see a snake sunning itself and be able to avoid the danger.
• Walk your dog on a 6 foot leash. If you see or hear a snake, if your dog is on a leash your can more easily avoid a bite. The vast majority of bites occur when the dog is off-leash or on a flexi-lead.
• Snake-proof your yard. Keep the grass short. Minimize the amount of snake friendly hideouts(rock pile and brush). There are some fencing ideas out there on how to keep them out, be sure to look at those if you have a problem around you house.
• Get your dog the rattlesnake vaccine. The vaccine is made from snake venom and generate antibodies in the animal that help REDUCE the reaction to a bite. Veterinarians report the vaccinated dogs experience less swelling and pain, less tissue damage and a faster recovery time. 
• If you or your dog encounter a rattlesnake... Slowly and calmly back away until out of striking distance(about the length of the snake) and the snake stops rattling. Then leave the area- if there is one snake, there are likely to be more.

​​RATTLESNAKE BITES ARE AN EMERGENCY

• Know a rattlesnake-bite symptoms-​
• Immediate symptoms include:

1. ​​puncture wounds(can be bleeding)
2. severe pain
3. swelling
4. restlessness, panting, or drooling

• ​More Severe symptoms may appear quickly or a few hours later include:

1. ​lethargy, weakness, sometimes collapse
2. muscle tremors
3. diarrhea
4. seizures
5. neurological signs
   
   

• ​​If your animal is bitten, if you can carry the animal to the car. Limiting the animal's activity will limit how fast the venom moves around the body.
• ​Get the animal to the vet as fast as possible. The faster the treatments(antivenin, IV fluids and supportive care) are given the greater the success rate.

Recently, there was a case of a young Pomeranian who got free of his owners and was hit by a car in Florida.  A good Samaritan brought the dog into an animal Emergency Room. Unfortunately, the dog wasn't wearing a collar (it had slipped off) and when the ER staff scanned for a microchip, there wasn't one.  The Veterinarian attempted to stabilize the Pom, but after a few hours when no owner could be located and the dog was suffering, elected to euthanize.  Tragically, the owner showed up shortly afterward.

This tragic story should serve as a reminder to all of us that NO fencing is 100% dog proof and collars break or fall off.  At Bayfield Animal Hospital, we treat a lot of hit-by-car dogs who got free of their yards, leashes or outdoor tie-outs.  We also get a LOT of dogs and cats who are dropped off because a good Samaritan found them wandering.  Sadly, most of these pets have lost their collars and don't have chips.  I'm grateful that so far, I haven't been in the position of the Vet in Florida but that's just good luck.  This tragedy is all too common and entirely preventable.

In fact, just yesterday a stray dog showed up who HAD a chip.  We scanned and that dog was home with her family that morning!

So, how do you prevent something tragic from happening to your furry family?

Microchips!

A microchip is a permanent identification - a small chip the size of a grain of rice that is placed between your dog or cat's shoulder blades.  Placing the chip can be done in a regular appointment - no sedation needed. The chip carries a number sequence that is unique to your pet - NO other pet has the same number.  When a pet is brought into a Vet clinic or an animal shelter, the very first thing staff does is scan for a chip.  A scanner will read the chip number.  Then staff can contact the chip company.  That number is registered to YOUR contact information.  The company calls you and you are reconnected with your pet! 

Does it work?  YES!
In a study of more than 7,700 stray animals showed that dogs without chips were reunited with their families only 21.9% of the time, but dogs with chips made it home 52.2% of the time!  It's even more stunning for cats.   Only 1.8% of the time did a stray cat make it home, but 38.5% of microchipped cats were united with their families! (Lord et al, JAVMA, July 15, 2009)

How does it work?
1.  We will place a microchip in an appointment.  You will fill out paperwork with your contact information and we submit that paperwork to the microchip organization.  That's it!
2.  If you ever move, you just need to call the organization to update your information so that when your pet is scanned, the chip still traces to you.
3.  If your pet gets lost, the Humane Society or Vet clinic will scan for a microchip.  Then, the chip company contacts YOU to get your friend home.  Your contact information is completely private - only the chip company can contact you.

Keep in mind, MOST of the pets adopted from the Humane Society are chipped already.  This chip is registered to the Humane Society, NOT the new family.  Make sure you update your pet's chip information when you adopt a new dog or cat!

We recommend that all cats and dogs, regardless of lifestyle, be microchipped.  It's a non-invasive, painless procedure that could save your pet's life!  Call us today to schedule your pet for a microchip or to check and see if your pet is microchipped already!

Many of us live here because we enjoy the outdoors - the hiking, kayaking, backpacking, rock climbing - the list goes on!  And, what better way to enjoy the outdoors than with our four-legged friends?!   Emergencies can happen at any time and it helps to be prepared.  The following is a list of items that we at BAH feel belong in a canine First Aid kit.

As a reminder, "First Aid" means care you provide "at the scene."  The tools in the kit are designed to provide enough support to get you and your friend to the nearest Veterinarian. 

Ideas for a Dog First Aid Kit

• Nail clippers
  
• Triple antibiotic ointment
  
• Tweezers
  
• Eye wash
  
  • Can be used to flush the eye safely (if the dog gets skunked, etc)
    
  • Can also be used to flush wounds safely
    
• Artificial tears eye ointment - this is safe to put in an eye if it looks irritated or painful at all while you seek out a Veterinarian
  
• Sled dog-type protective bootie
  
  • Useful for paw pad cuts, broken nails, etc to help provide support while you hike out
    
• Bandage materials:  Caution with Bandages - NEVER wrap the leg/wound too tight.  You should be able to easily get a finger between the bandage and the dog's leg
  
  • Gauze pads
    
  • Telfa pad (non-stick wound dressing)
    
  • Vet wrap
    
  • Scissors
    
  • Medical tape
    
• Benadryl
  
  • Useful for bee stings
    
  • Dose can be repeated every 12 hours until you can reach a Veterinarian
    
• Small container of hydrogen peroxide
  
  • This is used to induce vomiting if the dog eats something toxic (chocolate, etc).
    

Please call our office to get specific dose instructions (Benadryl and Hydrogen Peroxide) for your dog.  Keep this information on a slip of paper in your Kit.   We are unable to provide dose information on the internet.

​​You may notice this candle in our lobby on a visit.   This candle is lit with respect on the hardest day of pet ownership - the day we have to say goodbye.  There is nothing more difficult than making this last, and possibly most important, decision.  Before I get into this blog, I want to stress ​that ​we are here to help guide you through making this decision.  ​Please, call us to talk about your concerns - we can help!

​So, how do you decide when "it's time?"

​I'm not a believer in the "You'll just know" method.  This hurts.  Sometimes, you won't just know; sometimes you'll know, but don't trust yourself.  Sometimes, an older dog is eating and wags his tail, but can't hardly walk around even with a lot of pain medication - is that time?  Sometimes, an older cat is eating but can't keep anything down - is that time?  Sometimes, a seemingly healthy dog can't control his urine or bowels - is that time?

Most people worry about taking away good time.  I worry about that too.  That said, I've never had anyone (myself included) regret making the difficult decision to euthanize "too soon."  I have had many pet families regret waiting "too long."

​Remember, euthanasia literately means, "A Good Death."

​There are several methods out there to evaluate quality of life and help people make the decision.  The first and most important thing to remember is that quality of life is about your pet AND your family.  We have to maintain everyone's quality of life.

​The two scales I use most commonly to help guide families are described below.

​Option One - The "Good Day/Bad Day" Calendar
​Put up a calendar on the refrigerator.  At the end of the day, go with your gut - was today a "good day" or a "bad day?"  Don't overanalyze it - trust your gut.  Mark a G or B on your calendar. At the end of every week, look at the week before - do the good days still outnumber the bad days, or are they starting to equal each other? I usually recommend that we relieve a pet's pain when the good days equal the bad days.

​Option Two - The "What Makes Fluffy, Fluffy"
​Think of 5 things that make your pet who they are.  Does Fluffy run to greet you when you get home each day from work?  Does Fluffy ALWAYS pick out the green kibbles first?  Does Fluffy always lay on the blue couch to watch TV?  Does Fluffy always use the scratching post by the door several times a day? Does Fluffy always bark four times at the UPS man?  Select 5 things that define who your dog or cat is, and watch those things.  When your pet is no longer able to do 3 of those things, it may be "time."

​Part of the difficulty in deciding it's time is saying "goodbye" to a dear friend.  Part of the difficulty also stems from fear of the unknown.  The next section of this post will describe the euthanasia process.  Skip on if you'd rather not know.

​To begin with, a BAH Veterinarian will meet with you, your family and your pet.  If arrangements are made ahead of time, we can sometimes do this in the pet's favorite car or in the local park.  We will talk about euthanasia, the process and what you can expect to see with your pet, given their specific health issues.  Then, a pre-medication is given.  This medication is a strong pain reliever and also a strong sedative.  Our goal is that your pet passes peacefully, without fear and without pain.  I want your pet's last memory to be of his loving family, with no pain.  The actual euthanasia solution is an overdose of an anesthetic drug. We will never give this drug until you tell us that you are ready.  Once given, the solution typically works very quickly and the pet drifts out.  We try very hard to live up to the name "euthanasia" - a good death.

​In final thoughts... I hear all the time, "I don't know how you can do this every day! I could never do it."  The truth is, it's very hard. It's hard to say goodbye to pets we've seen since puppyhood. It's hard to see our clients in so much pain.  And, as pet parents ourselves, it's hard to re-live the memories of our previous furry family members.  The way we get through it is by remembering that ​we are giving the gift of a good death.  ​We are relieving suffering and allowing pets to pass with dignity, in the arms of the family who love them. 

​Euthanasia is always a difficult topic to discuss, and even harder to experience.  As always, if you are concerned about your pet's quality of life, please call us.  We are here to help.

​​The Pine River Historical Society had a great find last week, while cleaning out an older home!  Check out this old Veterinarian's medical bag and drugs.  I love seeing examples of old Vet med!

​Click the photos to make them bigger.

​If you want to see these in person (and lots of other cool stuff), you can visit the Historical Society on Mill Street. 

For you plant-savvy people, the following is a short list of some of the more common toxic lily plants:
1. Easter Lily
2. Japanese Snow Lily
3. Asiatic Lily
4. Tiger Lily
5. Day Lily
6. Rubrum lily
7. Stargazer lily
8. Red Lily
9. Western Lily
10.  Wood Lily

Images in this posting are found at these original URLs:
http://www.encinavet.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/lily.jpg
http://www.bunchesdirect.com/components/com_virtuemart/shop_image/product/white-bulk-asiatic-lilies.jpg